CHC Exhibit Gives
Visitors Look Into Cherokee Textiles
by Stacie Guthrie -
Reporter Cherokee Phoenix
PARK HILL, OK The Cherokee Heritage Center is giving
visitors a look into the clothing and textiles of the Cherokee people
with its Threads of Time exhibit. The show features
garments, jewelry, historic photographs and an antique loom used
by the Sequoyah Indian Weavers Association.
At
the Cherokee Heritage Centers Threads of Time
exhibit Cherokee National Treasure Dorothy Ices blankets
are displayed along with a loom that was once used by the
Sequoyah Indian Weavers Association. The exhibit runs until
Aug. 20. (photo
by Stacie Guthrie - Cherokee Phoenix)
CHC Executive Director Candessa Tehee said the exhibit, which
runs until Aug. 20, is important because it shows innovation
through time.
At
the Cherokee Heritage Centers Threads of Time
exhibit visitors can read information about Cherokee designer
Lloyd Kiva New. According to a Cherokee Phoenix article, Native
Americans refer to New as the Godfather of Native Fashion.
(photo by Jami Murphy - Cherokee Phoenix)
The clothing of Cherokee people is really important for
a lot of reasons, she said. It shows innovation through
time first of all. For instance, as Cherokee National Treasure Tonia
Weavel points out, if you look at the wrap skirt, its changed
mediums through time but the basic structure of the design has remained
the same.
Tehee said most of the clothing featured would have been everyday
clothing. She said there are also special garments and
garments specific to genders on display.
Some of the turkey feather capes, depending on how they
were made, they were made specifically for leaders or individuals
in the tribe, she said. The twine bags, its said,
were specifically worn by men. They were kind of the first tool
bags so women werent really carrying their items in those
woven bags. They were actually using baskets and things like that
to carry and transport any items or any kind of tools that they
had and they used. So there were definitely different articles of
clothing that were specific to certain people or even to certain
genders.
A
tear dress made by Wendell Cochran is on display at the Cherokee
Heritage Centers Threads of Time exhibit
in Park Hill, Oklahoma. CHC Executive Director Candessa Tehee
said Cochran was one of the primary designers for the
modern day tear dress that is the official regalia for Miss
Cherokee.
(photo by Stacie Guthrie - Cherokee Phoenix)
Tehee said its important to note that in most cases females
mainly created textiles and clothing.
In addition, I would say that looking at Cherokee clothing
is important as well because its often the product of female
artists, she said. Theres not enough attention
paid to the work of female artists, so I think that the exhibit
is important for that reason.
She said Cherokee National Treasure Dorothy Ice and Weavel are
two women whose work is on display.
Some of the artists work that you will see featured
within the exhibit is the work of Dorothy Dreadfulwater Ice. Shes
a Cherokee National Treasure for loom weaving and was a part of
the Sequoyah (Indian) Weavers Association as well, she said.
Youll also see the work of Tonia Weavel, Cherokee National
Treasure for traditional clothing. A ribbon shirt that shes
created is on display.
Tehee said the exhibit also presents male artists Lloyd Kiva
New and Wendell Cochran.
Also, were shedding light on Lloyd Kiva New, who
was a haute couture designer. He was a high fashion designer, international
known, and was also the (co-) founder of the Institute of American
Indian Art, she said. As well as the work of Wendell
Cochran, who was one of the primary designers for the modern day
tear dress that is the official regalia for Miss Cherokee.
Tehee said the exhibit also shows how the Cherokee way of adapting
to the clothing styles of the eras. Cherokee people were innovators
but they were also highly adaptable. So they would take anything
that was in their environment and once they took it on and adopted
it they considered it to be Cherokee.
At
the Cherokee Heritage Centers Threads of Time
exhibit visitors can see the Milam Jacket, which
was created for Principal Chief J.B. Milam while he served
as principal chief in the 1940s. The Sequoyah Weavers Association
made the jacket specifically for Milam.
(photo by Stacie Guthrie - Cherokee Phoenix)
She said an article on display that shows this adaptability
is the Milam Jacket, which was created for Principal
Chief J.B. Milam. In 1941 President Franklin D. Roosevelt appointed
Milam as principal chief. Overall, Milam was appointed principal
chief three times and served until 1949 when he died while in office,
according to A Cherokee Encyclopedia by Robert J. Conley.
The coat was actually created for him, and you can tell
that its a Cherokee-style hunting jacket, but the material
itself was loomed by the Sequoyah weavers, and it was constructed
by one of the Sequoyah weavers specifically for him in his role
as chief, she said. That coat itself really represents
the hunting jacket. It was an adoption. It was something that we
adopted from settlers essentially. This is a true example of how
Cherokees take things and we make it ours because from the fabric
to the color choices its all very, very Cherokee.
Tehee said on display are also photographs and excerpts describing
clothing.
You will see photographs of girls from the Cherokee National
Female Seminary. Youll also see photographs of just kind of
your average everyday citizen This (exhibit) goes back actually
to pre-contact to modern times so weve included as many photographs
of Cherokees wearing a variety of clothing as we can, she
said. Also featured are some historical documents that describe
the types of clothing that people saw from before the photographic
record.
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